Curating A Fragrance Wardrobe Is Easy If You Know This
April 16 | 4 minute read
Words by Ruby Devlin
There are almost 2000 fragrances at MECCA, each carefully crafted by some of the world’s best ‘noses’ and each existing within a network of similar scents. AKA a fragrance family.
There are seven fragrance families; amber, floral, wood, leather, citrus, aromatics and chypre, each with their own characteristics.
Think about it like genres of music. Sure, there are melodies and beats that overlap between various types of music, but each genre has a particular set of elements that sets them apart from the rest. The same can be said for fragrance.
To help you navigate the world of fragrance (and potentially help you find your new favourite scent) here’s each of the seven families, explained.
Amber
Amber, vanilla, tonka bean, caramel, ambergris, myrrh
What is it?
Decadent, warm and welcoming, the strong silage (AKA fragrance trail) of the amber family means they’re typically used as a base note. Amber can present as sweet, spicy, creamy or even edible (gourmand) depending on what other notes they’re paired with.
For a classic gourmand, look no further than MAISON MARGIELA’s REPLICA Afternoon Delight. Madagascar Vanilla and Madeleine Accord make this cosy eau de toilette smell delicious enough to eat.
In contrast, Charlotte Tilbury’s Cosmic Power balances the addictive characteristics of amber with bold notes like black pepper for a spicier take on the family.
Shop Amber Fragrances at MECCA:
Floral
Any flowers - including, but not limited to - rose, gardenia, camellia, jasmine, tuberose, peony, iris
What is it?
One of the most diverse families, floral fragrances evoke the feeling of walking through an expansive, blooming garden in spring. Whether you prefer soft and romantic or something a little moodier, notes in this family are used to balance scents, delivering a delicate, enigmatic sweetness.
You’re probably familiar with the traditional, feminine floral perfumes this family is best known for - like Diptyque’s ode to the queen of flowers, Eau Rose - but have you tried Dries Van Noten’s darker, more sensual approach in Fleur du Mal?
Shop Floral Fragrances at MECCA
Wood
Sandalwood, cedarwood, vetiver, pine oud, ambergris, papyrus
What is it?
As multifaceted as florals, notes in the wood family are grounding and rich. They can be dry like crisp autumn leaves on the forest floor or smooth like a freshly sanded wooden benchtop. This family is most often used as an anchoring base note. However, this group can also serve as the top note in bolder, more inventive scents.
This second approach can be seen in Escentric Molecules’ Molecule 01 which is built entirely around one molecule Iso E Super, a naturally cedar scent. This note reacts with the wearer's unique body chemistry, giving you an entirely exclusive, bespoke scent.
Then there’s Comme des Garçons Wonderwood. The woodiest of woods, this scent features four notes from the family for a luxurious and uplifting fragrance.
Le Labo’s cult-classic scent, Santal 33, is a more traditional take, with smoky, wood notes softened by floral violet and iris.
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Leather
Notes to look out for:
Leather, saffron, vetiver suede, styrax, birch, smoke, civet
What is it?
Edgy and enveloping, leather scents have a confident, almost rebellious, aura to them. They’re sharper, drier and smokier than their woody counterparts. Most commonly used as a heady base note - like in Tom Ford’s Tuscan Leather - you’ll often know a leather fragrance when you smell one.
However, there are instances, like in Vilhelm Parfumerie’s Morning Chess, where notes from this family are less recognisable, and used to add warmth in green or floral scents.
Shop Leather Fragrances at MECCA:
Citrus
Notes to look out for:
Orange, lemon, mandarin, neroli, grapefruit, lime, yuzu, bergamot
What is it?
Energising and light, the citrus family is most often utilised in top notes to bring a refreshing, effervescent quality to fragrances.
For example, Diptyque’s Des Hesperides, takes a traditional approach to this family, with bitter orange and lemon the stars of the show.
And while the mossier accords of Tsu Lange Yor’s Luca may not instantly remind you of citrus, bergamot brings in a fresh, fizzy note to the overall scent.
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Aromatics
Notes to look out for:
Lavender, Geranium, Clary Sage, Chamomile, Cedar Leaf, Mint, Cyprus, Eucalyptus
What is it?
Earthy and herbaceous, aromatic fragrances strike a perfect balance between grounding and uplifting. This family is most commonly featured in top and heart notes, bringing a clean, fresh sense to fragrances.
Many associate this family with intense, crisp colognes like Geranium Pour Monsieur by Frédéric Malle. Other scents in this family lean away from these traditional barbershop fragrances, like Replica’s From The Garden which is more reminiscent of your herb garden.
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Chypre
Notes to look out for:
Bergamot, patchouli, moss, oakmoss, truffle
What is it?
Magnetic, elegant and mysterious, this fragrance family commands the attention of every room they enter. Developed by Francois Coty in 1917, chypre fragrances typically feature a top note of bergamot, a floral heart, and a base of patchouli and oak moss.
For a fragrance that is quintessentially chypre in composition, look no further than Diptyque’s Eau Capitale.
But if you’re wanting to really make a statement, try Frédéric Malle’s Portrait of a Lady. Despite a composition that deviates slightly from traditional chypre scents, its sophisticated and alluring silage makes it a popular choice within this fragrance family.
Shop Chypre Fragrances at MECCA:
