The Ultimate Guide to Pregnancy Skin (and Hair)
October 24 | 3 minute read
Words by Arabella Roden
Suddenly, several of my favourite ingredients were no longer on the menu. Even more concerning, the chances were high my skin itself was going to be unpredictable – the question was, how?
Pregnancy hormones have been linked to a number of skin changes; higher production of melanocytes can lead to hyperpigmentation and melasma, while oil production can increase – leading to more frequent breakouts – or reduce, leaving skin feeling drier, itchier, flakier and more sensitive. (If you’re curious about my personal experience, it’s the latter – with a smidge of ‘revisiting my teenage years’ breakouts in the first trimester.)
FYI: all of this applies not only to the skin on your face, but your scalp too.
So, I asked the experts – which ingredients and types of products can I use while pregnant to try and keep my hard-won glow intact, minimise my 35-year-old fine lines, and keep my hair looking as healthy as possible?
Here’s what they said…
The ‘yes’ and ‘no’ list for skin
The number-one ingredient to avoid while pregnant (or breastfeeding) is vitamin A, aka retinoids. (I may have openly wept when I heard this news.)
The ultimate skincare multitasker, retinoids (your retinol, retinal, prescription tretinoin, et al) increase skin cell turnover and target everything from wrinkles to texture, uneven tone, dullness and breakouts.
So, what can you use in its place?
Dr Courtney Rubin (left), US board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of Fig.1 skincare, has a simple answer: “Niacinamide! Niacinamide and vitamin C. Those antioxidants are really, really wonderful. They brighten the skin and they're super safe for pregnancy.”
While bakuchiol – often billed as the ‘plant-derived alternative to retinol’ – isn’t explicitly off-limits, there haven’t been high-quality studies into its safety in pregnancy.
For the breakout-prone, benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid are similarly on the 'avoid, just to be on the safe side' list.
Luckily, you can swap them out for AHA chemical exfoliants like lactic acid and glycolic acid, and, as a bonus, your vitamin C skincare will pull double-duty and address the appearance of redness and blemishes.
(Bonus: if you’re headed to the skin clinic, brightening, breakout-fighting LED light therapy is considered pregnancy safe, too.)
Don’t forget your scalp
When it comes to pregnancy, you might feel like your hair feels thicker or seems to be growing more quickly, while your scalp could be oilier, itchier or more sensitive.
“These changes are primarily driven by hormones – specifically oestrogen and progesterone,” explains Helen Reavey, trichologist, celebrity hairstylist and founder of Act+Acre. “Oestrogen boosts hair growth by keeping hair in the anagen (growth) phase longer, while progesterone can increase oil production, affecting scalp health.”
Postpartum, as your hormone levels return to normal, you’ll see another shift in both hair and scalp; as your hair moves into the telogen (resting) phase, you could see increased thinning and hair fall.
“It will most likely begin three to four months postpartum, and the amount of hair you lose will vary from person to person. As hormones stabilise, scalp oiliness or dryness may shift as well,” Reavey adds.
The bottom line: using the right products and techniques is all the more important at this time.
Reavey recommends focusing on three key areas: nutrition, thorough cleansing and exfoliation, and stimulating the scalp.
“During pregnancy, focus on maintaining scalp health by incorporating a hydrating scalp serum with ingredients like hyaluronic acid to combat dryness. A gentle scalp massage technique can also promote blood flow and help nourish the scalp, which is essential for hair growth,” the expert explains.
Adds Reavey, “A very important step that’s often overlooked is keeping the scalp clean. Regular use of a scalp treatment to remove excess sebum and dead skin helps maintain optimal blood flow to the hair follicles, promoting a healthier environment for new hair growth.”
Postpartum, Reavey advises incorporating scalp treatments with “stem cells, peptides or caffeine” and continuing to take your prenatal vitamins or supplements – with a focus on vitamin C, biotin and amino acids – to help minimise shedding.
