Sensitive or Sensitised Skin? Knowing The Difference Changes Everything
February 23 | 5 minute read
Words by Christie Sinclair
We’re not gaslighting you (and never would!). What you (and evidently around 60% of the Australian population) are feeling is a form of sensitivity. But for most people, it’s just not true sensitive skin.
“As Shakespeare might put it – some are born with sensitive skin, some acquire it, and some have sensitivity thrust upon them,” explains Rob Calcraft, sensitive skin expert and founder of microbiome-friendly brand Cultured.
Almost everyone at some stage in their life has experienced some form of skin sensitivity for any number of reasons. A product that suddenly stings. A mysterious rash that appears out of nowhere. A persistent feeling of dryness or irritation you just can’t pin down. Was it the weather? An ingredient? Am I too stressed? It could very well be all those things – or none at all – Calcraft tells us.
It’s one of the most confounding skin issues because, as you can see, tracking down the culprit is difficult enough, but living with it is quite frankly exhausting. So we called on Calcraft to help us understand more about sensitive skin so we can get to the bottom of what’s causing it and create a routine that won’t upset your skin.
Were you born with it? Or is it self-inflicted?
Sensitive skin is often something you’re born with, “A long-term, sometimes genetic predisposition where your skin just naturally reacts more than most,” he explains. Sensitised skin, on the other hand, is more of a temporary state. “It’s often caused by external factors such as weather, pollution, stress, diet, hormones, lack of sleep, or even your skincare routine.” Calcraft adds that over time, skin can become so sensitised that it starts behaving like genetically sensitive skin.
Either way, at the core of it all, he says the skin barrier and microbiome. “If they’re compromised, skin becomes more porous, prone to irritation, and less resilient.”
In our sensitive skin era
Beyond the personal struggle, sensitive skin has shifted to a kind of ‘status symbol’ within the beauty world - or social media at least. What was once a frustrating and often isolating even embarrassing experience has become widely discussed, with a certain cachet to being someone who’s so attuned to the very slightest sign of irritation and how best to remedy it. “Maybe it’s because more people are experiencing it,” Cacraft says, adding, “Trends come and go, but the reality is, the overuse of products and excessive skincare routines have left a lot of people dealing with sensitised skin.
“In some ways, it feels like a reaction to the 209-step routines and overstuffed bathroom cabinets - a move towards ‘less but better.’ The broader cultural shift towards self-care and wellbeing fits right in with this.”
Spot the difference
With so many factors at play and so many possibilities, it’s not always easy to spot the difference between sensitive and sensitised skin, but Calcraft has some tips. “If your skin is red, hot, itchy, dry, or prone to flare-ups - and stays that way - it’s probably sensitive. If it comes and goes based on changes in your routine or environment, it’s likely sensitised.”
Handle with care
So now we have a good idea as to how and why we’re in this hot mess, how are we going to manage it?
[Editor’s note: if you’re experiencing or suspect you might have eczema, rosacea, dermatitis or any other concerns with your skin, you should chat to your doctor or dermatologist first].
Whether you were born with it or your sensitivities are self-inflicted, Calfcraft says the fundamentals remain the same: protect and strengthen the skin, support the microbiome, and reduce irritation.
“Sensitive skin requires a long-term, consistent approach - focusing on barrier protection, microbiome health, and avoiding known triggers. Sensitised skin usually needs you to identify and remove the cause - whether it’s a product, stress, or lifestyle factor - before calming and soothing the skin back to balance,” he says.
Microbiome matters
Before you throw away the contents of your medicine cabinet, Calcraft has a word of advice: “If you think it’s just about one magic ingredient as an antidote, it’s not. Skin health is about the bigger picture - your whole skincare routine, your lifestyle, your gut health, your stress levels. It’s all connected.”
So once you start treating your body like the temple it is, according to Calcraft, the golden rule is to keep the skin barrier and microbiome intact. “That means respecting the skin’s acid mantle, lipid matrix, and microbiome balance. [Cultured’s] formulation philosophy is to feed, balance and activate the skin barrier and biome, so we’re holistically caring for skin at multiple touchpoints.”
Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Intensive Soothing Repair Serum: A K-beauty secret, this is like intensive care for sensitive skin. It’s formulated with Centella Asiatica, peptides and allantoin to strengthen the barrier while soothing and hydrating.
Cosmetics 27 Baume 27 Advanced Formula: From the masters of regenerative skincare, this is a MECCA team favourite for its advanced, skin-healing formula powered by Centella Asiatica. It’s creamy and rich, and boosted with prebiotics, making it ideal for sensitive and dehydrated skin.
Korres Foaming Cream Cleanser: A soothing wash from the Greek apothecary, made for sensitive skin. The cooling Greek yoghurt-based formula provides an effective cleanse while keep stressed skin in check.
Kate Somerville Goat Milk Moisturizing Cleanser: This creamy, moisturising cleanser from the Beverly Hills-based aesthetician’s renowned sensitive skin collection effectively purifies without any stripping. The added goat milk proteins soothe dry and fragile skin while manuka honey provides nourishing moisture.
Cosmetics 27 Lift 27: A sensitive skin cheat sheet, try this potent soothing treatment when you need relief, fast. It’s formulated with Centella Asiatica for intense moisture, and includes a bonus ‘lifting serum’ to help skin appear smooth and plump.
Cultured Biome One Serum: Don’t know where to start? Try Cultured’s bestselling serum, with a broad-spectrum prebiotic, symbiotic black tea ferment and inulin (derived from chicory and agave) it offers the benefits of multiple products, from supporting the microbiome and strengthening the skin barrier to deep hydration and a smoothing retinol-like effect.
