Why We’re Hooked On Chemical Exfoliants
March 24 | 4 minute read
Words by The MECCA Memo
Exfoliation is a vital step in any skincare routine, removing the top layer of the dermis to sweep away dead skin cells and any dirt or bacteria that may cause texture or blemishes. Luminous new skin is revealed underneath, giving you that even-toned, clear and glowy look. But not all exfoliants are created equal. Physical exfoliants slough away dead skin with granules such as crushed seeds. However, for some, the rubbing that comes with a scrub may irritate the skin. If this is something you’ve experienced, you could look for formulas with added hydrating skincare. Or…
There’s an alternative! Chemical exfoliants are liquid solutions that dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells. There are three main categories: AHAs, BHAs and PHAs. Let’s discuss.
First, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are water soluble, usually derived from fruits, and tend to be ideal for more sensitive or dry skin types. Look for AHAs such as lactic acid or glycolic acid. Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) tend to be synthetically derived and are oil-soluble, making them great for the oily and acne-prone since they can penetrate deeper into the skin. Salicylic acid is the most commonly used BHA in skincare.
Fresher on the exfoliation scene are poly-hydroxy acids (PHAs). These gentle acids are similar to AHAs but don’t penetrate the skin as deeply, making them less irritating and more hydrating. Gluconolactone, galactose and lactobionic are all common PHAs.
Ready to up your glow? Here’s our pick of the best chemical exfoliants.
The Quick Facial
Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Universal Daily Peel
Talk about a one-two punch! If you’re time poor and looking for an easy way to take your skin from dull to luminous, reach for Dr. Dennis Gross’ gamechanging at-home peel pads, formulated with five AHAs and BHAs. Think of these daily wipes as a quick two minute facial. Swipe step one over your (dry) face post-cleanse, and wait two minutes. Then follow up with step two, after which you can go on with your regular combination of serum and moisturiser. If you have enlarged pores or want to nix uneven texture (fast), give this a try.
The Skin Rest
REN Ready Steady Glow
It’s celebrity makeup artist Katie Jane Hughes “secret weapon” for instant skin prep, but we also love it for its brightening and pore-tightening abilities. Powered by lactic acid (an AHA), azelaic acid and white willow bark, it also helps reduce redness and kill any bad, breakout-causing bacteria. To use, saturate a cotton pad, then swipe onto clean skin, carefully avoiding the eye area. Put a little more pressure on the areas you have dry skin and in seconds, you’ll be glowing.
The Overachiever
Go-To Exfoliator
Hyperpigmentation is not only incredibly frustrating but also notoriously difficult to overcome. Allies of Skin have a solution, a powerhouse blend of 3% tranexamic acid, 2% alpha arbutin and 5% niacinamide to help reduce the appearance of dark spots and discolouration by gently sloughing off the top layer of skin, then strengthening it with a soothing blend of fermented reishi and shiitake mushroom extracts. Slide it into your PM routine between your cleanser and moisturiser, and in as little as a week, you’ll notice the benefits: soft, smoother texture, and stronger, brighter skin.
The Cult Favourite
Sunday Riley Good Genes Lactic Acid Treatment
With a focus on efficacy and quick results, Sunday Riley’s supercharged formulas have taken the skincare world by storm. Good Genes is one of them, a high-performance liquid exfoliator powered by purified lactic acid (a hydrating AHA) to gently buff away dead skin cells, revealing smooth, plump, fresh-as-a-daisy skin underneath. With continued use, expect to see an improvement in the appearance of dark spots and fine lines (that’s thanks to the combination of licorice and arnica). Apply 1-2 pumps to clean dry skin day or night and leave it on as a treatment. Sensitive skin? Use it as a mask, leaving it on for 15 minutes before rinsing well.
The Overnight Wonder
Fig.1 Glycolic Glow Treatment
Uneven Tone? Texture? Enlarged pores? Congestion? Add this glycolic acid treatment into your PM routine and all will be a distant memory by the time you wake. With 4% glycolic acid, PHAs (lactobionic acid and gluconolactone to be exact), squalane and cold-pressed seed oils, it very gently (yet very effectively) exfoliates without irritation, while adding a layer of hydration back to the outer layers of skin. Start slowly, using just once a week after cleansing in the evening, then increase to 2-3 times per week as your skin builds tolerance.
The Final Step
As your exfoliator removes dead skin and debris, it may also strip moisture from the surface, which is why we always recommend following with a nourishing treatment or moisturiser to maintain balance and prevent dryness. And as it turns out, post exfoliation is actually the perfect time to treat your skin as it’s clean and primed to absorb all those incredible, hydrating ingredients. To get the most out of your exfoliation routine, try some of our soothing favourites: Cosmetics 27 Baume 27 Serum, Verso’s Hydration Serum or Cultured’s Biome One Serum.
