Made up of amino acids, peptides are the ‘building blocks’ of proteins – including the likes of collagen, elastin and keratin, which are essential to skin. Adding peptides to your skincare routine (via a serum or moisturiser, so they have a chance to sink in!) helps support the production of these proteins, leaving your skin looking plumper, smoother, bouncier, more hydrated, and more resilient to external damage.
Think of it like fixing the foundations of your house – everything that’s built on top is that much stronger. Sometimes called the ‘personal trainers of skin’, peptides help to strengthen, can be targeted to specific concerns (like texture, fine lines or loss of elasticity) and require consistency to see the best results. Plus, they’re suitable for all skin types, from sensitive to mature.
While there are hundreds of different peptides, in skincare, they can be broadly grouped by their function; here to explain it all is MECCA Skincare Education Lead Consuella…
Signal Peptides
Good For: Firmer-looking, stronger skin.
Look For: Ingredients with ‘Palmitoyl’ in the name.
Think of these peptides as ‘messengers’: “Signal peptides communicate with various layers of the skin, supporting the production of collagen, elastin and other essential proteins for an overall more revitalised appearance,” Consuella explains.
Neurotransmitter Peptides
Good For: Smoothing the look of fine lines, deeper wrinkles and crow’s feet.
Look For: Ingredients with ‘Hexapeptide’ in the name.
A ground-breaking skincare ingredient, these peptides help in “the prevention of future lines,” according to Consuella. “These peptides ‘block’ the release of chemicals that cause the muscle contractions of expression lines.”
If you “prefer a topical approach”, they’re a great choice for those looking to prevent and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, particularly around the delicate skin of the eye.
Carrier Peptides
Good For: Skin barrier support, nourishment.
Look For: ‘Copper tripeptide’ on the ingredient list.
Skin showing signs of a compromised barrier (think: sensitivity, dryness and redness)? Carrier peptides could be the perfect pick for you.
“Daily peptide use supports collagen production and strengthens the skin barrier, locking in moisture and enhancing overall resilience,” says Consuella.
They help deliver soothing, strengthening vitamins and minerals – like copper and magnesium – to your skin, and mimic its natural renewal processes to keep it looking nourished and hydrated.
“This results in firmer, more hydrated skin with a stronger defence against environmental aggressors,” the expert adds.
Pair these with your peptides…
According to Consuella, “There’s no better duo than peptides and vitamin C. While peptides provide the building blocks for collagen, vitamin C supports the body’s natural collagen formation and enhances overall skin health.”
A potent antioxidant, vitamin C also helps boost radiance and targets discolouration, while helping to amplify peptides’ effects. You can also layer a peptide moisturiser with soothing, hydrating serums with niacinamide or hyaluronic acid.
However, if you’re using alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic acid or lactic acid, or beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid, make sure not to use peptides at the same time – these chemical exfoliants will make your peptides less effective. When it comes to retinol, experts advise applying your peptides in the morning and retinol at night.