Retinol 101: A Beginner's Guide to Choosing and Using Retinol
July 1 | 3 minute read
Words by Kerri Gordon and Iain Jeffery
This hard-working molecule is like skincare’s Swiss Army knife, delivering a long list of benefits from just one ingredient. If you’re still confused about this complex complexion-perfector, we’re giving you the lowdown on what retinol is and why it could deserve a place in your routine.
When should I start using retinol?
Though some beauty fans are tapping into retinol skincare at an early age, experts recommend your late twenties or even early thirties are the right time to incorporate these products into your routine.
How do I use retinol?
Start slow! The journey with retinol should be slow and steady, so your skin can become acclimated to the formula. Begin with one application a week for two weeks, before slowly working up to the recommended use. When in doubt, read the instructions!
What is retinol?
Retinol is the most common form of vitamin A used in skincare (forms of vitamin A are known as ‘retinoids’). Through its ability to influence skin cell turnover, retinol can do everything from reducing breakouts to smoothing skin’s texture, reducing the look of fine lines and evening out the skin tone. While you may have heard whispers of retinol’s side effects (irritation, sensitivity, redness), complementing your skin with the right type and the formula will deliver results without compromise.
What are the different types of retinol?
As mentioned, retinol is a retinoid – the all-encompassing term for vitamin A. The different forms of retinoids are like cousins: similar, but different. Once applied, your body converts retinoids into the active form of vitamin A, retinoic acid, which is what makes a difference to the way your skin looks. Different forms require up to three ‘conversions’, influencing how potent or fast-acting they are.
Retinal
The most potent form of vitamin A available without a prescription, retinal – short for retinaldehyde – only requires one conversion in the skin before it’s activated, making it much more potent than retinol. Ideal for retinoid regulars and those with stronger skin, or who are looking for fast results.
Retinol
The most common retinoid available in skincare, retinol requires two conversions by the skin. Available in a range of strengths, and in everything from eye creams to serums and oils, retinol is a great place for most people to find their vitamin A companion.
Retinol esters
Often labelled as ‘retinyl’ on ingredient lists, retinol esters require three conversions in the skin, which means they are among the gentlest retinoids available. Their multiple conversions mean the risks of irritation are mitigated – however, they are slower to show results and many find they need to combine them with more potent forms to see the results that they want.
Bakuchiol
The new(er) kid on the block, bakuchiol is retinol’s plant-based alternative. Derived from the leaves and seeds of the babchi plant, its touted to deliver the same benefits of retinoids to the skin, with additional skin-soothing properties.
